OMC Controls If you need help finding the right part give our techs a call 1-800-998-9508. Try the Sierra / Sonar Engine Finder Tool to shop for engine parts by engine make and model. REMOTE CONTROL OPERATION Read and familiarize yourself with the complete operation of the remote control before attempting to start the outboard. IMPORTANT: The operation of this remote con-trol may vary from one outboard model to anoth-er. Refer to outboard’s operator’s guide for specific instructions related to outboard.
Fuel Pumps
General Information
Fuel Pump Description/Operation
Testing
Troubleshooting Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump Components
Fuel Pump Removal/Installation
Fuel Pump Cleaning, Inspection, Disassembly and Reassembly
Fuel Pump – Cleaning/Inspection
Check Valve Reassembly
Carburetion
Fuel System Troubleshooting
Checking for Restricted Fuel Flow Caused by Anti-Siphon Valves
Fuel System (Carburetor)
Fuel System (Linkage)
Carburetor Adjustments
Initial Starting Adjustment
Low Speed Mixture Adjustment
Carburetor Float Adjustment
Specification Sheet - WME Carburetors
Carburetor Fastener Torques
Settings
Fuel Pump Specifications
Fuel Pump Pressure
Sealants
Idle Speed Adjustment
Main (High Speed) Jet Adjustment
Rejetting Carburetors For High Altitude Operation
Jet Orifice Size/Part Number Chart
Carburetor Removal and Disassembly
Carburetor Disassembly
Cleaning and Inspection
Carburetor Reassembly
Idle Air Screw
Enrichener System
Enrichener Valve Hose Installation
Enrichener Valve Test
Acceleration Pump Fuel Flow Circuit
Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank Components
Fuel Line and Primer Bulb Assembly
Fuel Line Clamp Removal and Installation Launchbar 5 5 2 – powerful fileurlemail launcher utility.
General Information
Fuel Pump Description/Operation
Testing
Troubleshooting Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump Components
Fuel Pump Removal/Installation
Fuel Pump Cleaning, Inspection, Disassembly and Reassembly
Fuel Pump – Cleaning/Inspection
Check Valve Reassembly
Carburetion
Fuel System Troubleshooting
Checking for Restricted Fuel Flow Caused by Anti-Siphon Valves
Fuel System (Carburetor)
Fuel System (Linkage)
Carburetor Adjustments
Initial Starting Adjustment
Low Speed Mixture Adjustment
Carburetor Float Adjustment
Specification Sheet - WME Carburetors
Carburetor Fastener Torques
Settings
Fuel Pump Specifications
Fuel Pump Pressure
Sealants
Idle Speed Adjustment
Main (High Speed) Jet Adjustment
Rejetting Carburetors For High Altitude Operation
Jet Orifice Size/Part Number Chart
Carburetor Removal and Disassembly
Carburetor Disassembly
Cleaning and Inspection
Carburetor Reassembly
Idle Air Screw
Enrichener System
Enrichener Valve Hose Installation
Enrichener Valve Test
Acceleration Pump Fuel Flow Circuit
Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank Components
Fuel Line and Primer Bulb Assembly
Fuel Line Clamp Removal and Installation Launchbar 5 5 2 – powerful fileurlemail launcher utility.
Fuel Pumps
General Information
FUEL PUMP DESCRIPTION/OPERATION
The fuel pump is a crankcase-pressure-operated, diaphragm-
type pump. Crankcase pulsating pressure
(created by the up-and-down movement of piston) is
transferred to fuel pump by way of a passage (hole)
between crankcase and fuel pump.
When piston is in an upward motion, a vacuum is
created in the crankcase, thus pulling in a fuel/air mixture
(from carburetor) into crankcase. This vacuum
also pulls in on the fuel pump diaphragm, thus the inlet
check valve (in fuel pump) is opened and fuel (from
fuel tank) is drawn into fuel pump.
Downward motion of the piston forces the fuel/air mixture
out of the crankcase into the cylinder. This motion
also forces out on the fuel pump diaphragm, which, in
turn, closes the inlet check valve (to keep fuel from returning
to fuel tank) and opens the outlet check valve,
thus forcing fuel to the carburetors.
CHECKING FOR RESTRICTED FUEL FLOW CAUSED
BY ANTI-SIPHON VALVES
While anti-siphon valves may be helpful from a safety
stand-point, they clog with debris, they may be too
small, or they may have too heavy a spring. Summarizing,
the pressure drop across these valves can,
and often does, create operational problems and/or
powerhead damage by restricting fuel to the fuel
pump and carburetor(s). Some symptoms of restricted
(lean) fuel flow, which could be caused by use
of an anti-siphon valve, are:
0001 Loss of fuel pump pressure
0001 Loss of power
0001 High speed surging
0001 Preignition/detonation (piston dome erosion)
0001 Outboard cuts out or hesitates upon acceleration
0001 Outboard runs rough
0001 Outboard quits and cannot be restarted
0001 Outboard will not start
0001 Vapor lock
Since any type of anti-siphon device must be located
between the outboard fuel inlet and fuel tank outlet,
a simple method of checking [if such a device (or bad
fuel) is a problem source] is to operate the outboard
with a separate fuel supply which is known to be
good, such as a remote fuel tank.
If, after using a separate fuel supply, it is found that
the anti-siphon valve is the cause of the problem,
there are 2 solutions to the problem; either (1) remove
the anti-siphon valve or (2) replace it with a solenoidoperated
fuel shutoff valve.
Testing
Install clear fuel hose(s) between fuel pump and carburetor(
s). Run engine, and inspect fuel passing thru
hose(s) for air bubbles. If air bubbles are found, see
“Air Bubbles in Fuel Line,” below. If air bubbles are
NOT found, see “Lack of Fuel Pump Pressure,” continued
on next page.
Troubleshooting Fuel Pump
PROBLEM: AIR BUBBLES IN FUEL LINE
Possible Cause Corrective Action
Low fuel in fuel tank. Fill tank with fuel.
Loose fuel line
connection.
Check and tighten all
connections.
Fuel pump fitting loose. Tighten fitting.
A hole or cut in fuel line. Check condition of all
fuel lines and replace
any found to be bad.
Fuel pump anchor
screw(s) loose.
Tighten all screws
evenly and securely.
Fuel pump gasket(s)
worn out.
Rebuild fuel pump.
PROBLEM: LACK OF FUEL PUMP PRESSURE
Possible Cause Corrective Action
An anti-siphon valve. Read “Checking for
Restricted Fuel Flow,
Caused by Anti-Siphon
Valves” preceding.
Air in fuel line. “Air Bubbles in Fuel
Line”, preceding.
A dirty or clogged fuel
filter.
Clean or replace fuel
filter.
The fuel pickup in fuel
tank clogged or dirty.
Clean or replace pickup.
Worn out fuel pump
diaphragm.
Rebuild fuel pump.
Defective (hole or crack)
check valve(s) in fuel
pump (unlikely).
Rebuild fuel pump.
Broken check valve
retainer.
Rebuild fuel pump.
Pulse hole plugged. Remove fuel pump and
clean out hole.
General Information
FUEL PUMP DESCRIPTION/OPERATION
The fuel pump is a crankcase-pressure-operated, diaphragm-
type pump. Crankcase pulsating pressure
(created by the up-and-down movement of piston) is
transferred to fuel pump by way of a passage (hole)
between crankcase and fuel pump.
When piston is in an upward motion, a vacuum is
created in the crankcase, thus pulling in a fuel/air mixture
(from carburetor) into crankcase. This vacuum
also pulls in on the fuel pump diaphragm, thus the inlet
check valve (in fuel pump) is opened and fuel (from
fuel tank) is drawn into fuel pump.
Downward motion of the piston forces the fuel/air mixture
out of the crankcase into the cylinder. This motion
also forces out on the fuel pump diaphragm, which, in
turn, closes the inlet check valve (to keep fuel from returning
to fuel tank) and opens the outlet check valve,
thus forcing fuel to the carburetors.
CHECKING FOR RESTRICTED FUEL FLOW CAUSED
BY ANTI-SIPHON VALVES
While anti-siphon valves may be helpful from a safety
stand-point, they clog with debris, they may be too
small, or they may have too heavy a spring. Summarizing,
the pressure drop across these valves can,
and often does, create operational problems and/or
powerhead damage by restricting fuel to the fuel
pump and carburetor(s). Some symptoms of restricted
(lean) fuel flow, which could be caused by use
of an anti-siphon valve, are:
0001 Loss of fuel pump pressure
0001 Loss of power
0001 High speed surging
0001 Preignition/detonation (piston dome erosion)
0001 Outboard cuts out or hesitates upon acceleration
0001 Outboard runs rough
0001 Outboard quits and cannot be restarted
0001 Outboard will not start
0001 Vapor lock
Since any type of anti-siphon device must be located
between the outboard fuel inlet and fuel tank outlet,
a simple method of checking [if such a device (or bad
fuel) is a problem source] is to operate the outboard
with a separate fuel supply which is known to be
good, such as a remote fuel tank.
If, after using a separate fuel supply, it is found that
the anti-siphon valve is the cause of the problem,
there are 2 solutions to the problem; either (1) remove
the anti-siphon valve or (2) replace it with a solenoidoperated
fuel shutoff valve.
Testing
Install clear fuel hose(s) between fuel pump and carburetor(
s). Run engine, and inspect fuel passing thru
hose(s) for air bubbles. If air bubbles are found, see
“Air Bubbles in Fuel Line,” below. If air bubbles are
NOT found, see “Lack of Fuel Pump Pressure,” continued
on next page.
Troubleshooting Fuel Pump
PROBLEM: AIR BUBBLES IN FUEL LINE
Possible Cause Corrective Action
Low fuel in fuel tank. Fill tank with fuel.
Loose fuel line
connection.
Check and tighten all
connections.
Fuel pump fitting loose. Tighten fitting.
A hole or cut in fuel line. Check condition of all
fuel lines and replace
any found to be bad.
Fuel pump anchor
screw(s) loose.
Tighten all screws
evenly and securely.
Fuel pump gasket(s)
worn out.
Rebuild fuel pump.
PROBLEM: LACK OF FUEL PUMP PRESSURE
Possible Cause Corrective Action
An anti-siphon valve. Read “Checking for
Restricted Fuel Flow,
Caused by Anti-Siphon
Valves” preceding.
Air in fuel line. “Air Bubbles in Fuel
Line”, preceding.
A dirty or clogged fuel
filter.
Clean or replace fuel
filter.
The fuel pickup in fuel
tank clogged or dirty.
Clean or replace pickup.
Worn out fuel pump
diaphragm.
Rebuild fuel pump.
Defective (hole or crack)
check valve(s) in fuel
pump (unlikely).
Rebuild fuel pump.
Broken check valve
retainer.
Rebuild fuel pump.
Pulse hole plugged. Remove fuel pump and
clean out hole.
Troubleshooting Fuel Pump
(continued)
PROBLEM: LACK OF FUEL PUMP PRESSURE
Possible Cause Corrective Action
Hole in pulse hose
(1 pulse hose).
Replace pulse hose.
Loose pulse hose. Tighten connection.
Boost diaphragm gasket
distorted or out of place.
Check seal between
mating surfaces where
“rib” divides pulse
chamber – gasket must
align with rib; check for
distorted gasket. Align
or replace gasket if
necessary.
Fuel Pump Components (Design 1)
NOTE: In fuel pump reassembly, remember that respective
diaphragms go against the mating surfaces
of the fuel pump body, and respective gaskets are between
the diaphragms and end caps. Gaskets should
always be replaced on fuel pump assembly.
(continued)
PROBLEM: LACK OF FUEL PUMP PRESSURE
Possible Cause Corrective Action
Hole in pulse hose
(1 pulse hose).
Replace pulse hose.
Loose pulse hose. Tighten connection.
Boost diaphragm gasket
distorted or out of place.
Check seal between
mating surfaces where
“rib” divides pulse
chamber – gasket must
align with rib; check for
distorted gasket. Align
or replace gasket if
necessary.
Fuel Pump Components (Design 1)
NOTE: In fuel pump reassembly, remember that respective
diaphragms go against the mating surfaces
of the fuel pump body, and respective gaskets are between
the diaphragms and end caps. Gaskets should
always be replaced on fuel pump assembly.
a - Fuel Pump Base
b - Fuel Pump Body
c - Chamber Plate
d - Gasket, Base
e - Fuel Filter – Inline
f - Gasket, Pulse Chamber
g - Diaphragm, Fuel Pump
h - Retainer, Check Valve
i - Check Valve
j - Check Valve Rubber Disc
k - Main Compression Spring End Cap
l - Main Compression Spring
m- Boost Diaphragm
n - Boost Chamber Gasket
o - Boost Compression Spring End Cap
p - Boost Compression Spring
q - Retainer, Check Valve
r - Check Valve
s - Check Valve Rubber Disc
t - Check Valve Assembly
b - Fuel Pump Body
c - Chamber Plate
d - Gasket, Base
e - Fuel Filter – Inline
f - Gasket, Pulse Chamber
g - Diaphragm, Fuel Pump
h - Retainer, Check Valve
i - Check Valve
j - Check Valve Rubber Disc
k - Main Compression Spring End Cap
l - Main Compression Spring
m- Boost Diaphragm
n - Boost Chamber Gasket
o - Boost Compression Spring End Cap
p - Boost Compression Spring
q - Retainer, Check Valve
r - Check Valve
s - Check Valve Rubber Disc
t - Check Valve Assembly
Carburetion
Fuel System Troubleshooting
Troubles, that are caused by items 1-thru-5, listed below,
may give the impression that a problem exists in
the fuel system:
1. Spark plugs
2. Ignition spark voltage
3. Cylinder compression
4. Reed valves
5. Ignition timing
Troubleshooting Charts
Fuel System Troubleshooting
Troubles, that are caused by items 1-thru-5, listed below,
may give the impression that a problem exists in
the fuel system:
1. Spark plugs
2. Ignition spark voltage
3. Cylinder compression
4. Reed valves
5. Ignition timing
Troubleshooting Charts
updated
Engine Type I/O
![Control Control](https://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l400/pict/173792994682_1.jpg)
Repair Difficulty Medium
SYMPTOM 1 HARD SHIFTING
- Possible cause: Excessive tension on vertical drive shift cables.
Correction: Push shift cable into shift converter socket while raising tensioner pawls away from housing. (see Figure 7-1-115). Release tensioner pawls then gently release shift cable. Allow only the spring to tension the core wires. Do not pull on cable jacket to test for tension.
Figure 7-1-115
- Possible cause: Vertical drive cable core wires crossed in converter housing.
Correction: Remove shift control cable from converter housing shift arm. Remove converter housing cover screws and rotate cover to side. (Shift converter box may be removed from adapter housing if access is restricted). Insure that core wires are located properly. (See Figure 7-1-117). Correct routing if necessary and repeat cable tension procedure.
Figure 7-1-117
- Possible cause: Shift remote control push-pull cables of incorrect lengths resulting in too sharp of bends and/or excessive drag. Too long of cable results in additional degrees of bend. Misadjusted throttle cable will cause hard shifting.
Correction: Replace cable. Measure boat to determine correct cable length. Adjust to reduce excess cable tension when against carburetor idle stop if necessary. See Symptom 2 possible cause no. 3. - Possible cause: Nicked, flattened, frayed or badly kinked vertical drive cable core wires.
Correction: Vertical drive cable assembly must be replaced. - Possible cause: Shift cable and throttle cable connected backwards in shift control. Correction: Double check function of each cable and reconnect properly. Remote control shift arm will move before throttle arm.
- Possible cause: (OMC Control) Concealed side mount control mounting flange binding on control handle shaft. Mounting flange and control box not parallel due to irregularities on the inner surface of the boat deck/side panel or boat deck/side panel too thick. Mounting screws tightened individually.
Correction: Insure inner deck surfaces are parallel with outside surface of deck. Inner surface should not be in ,contact with control box. Check for 1-1/8' maximum thickness of deck in control box mounting area. (See Figure 7-1-120.) Remove mounting screws and reinstall, tightening screws uniformly, so that the mounting flange is square with the control.
Figure 7-1-120
- Possible cause: Flat side of remote control cable casing guide incorrectly attached to shift arm on shift converter housing.
Correction: Reinstall casing guide properly (flat side up) to shift arm on converter housing. (See Figure 7-1-121).
Figure 7-1-121
If corrections above fail to reduce shifting effort, then isolate each assembly to determine problem area. To isolate the control box, disconnect the shift cable from the converter box. Move shift control handle from neutral through forward and reverse positions. If effort remains the same, recheck possible cause steps 5 through 7. If effort is reduced, tie boat securely to dock. Insure converter box shift arm is in neutral. Start engine and while at idle move converter shift arm. Some effort will be necessary to move the shift arm. If a great amount of effort is required then a further inspection of each component down to the gearcase is necessary and recheck possible cause steps 1 through 4.
SYMPTOM 2: ENGINE WILL NOT START IN
NEUTRAL (NEUTRAL START SWITCH IN REMOTE CONTROL MUST BE UTILIZED.
NEUTRAL (NEUTRAL START SWITCH IN REMOTE CONTROL MUST BE UTILIZED.
- Possible cause: Neutral start switch leads not connected.
Correction: Connect neutral start switch leads, spade terminal to start terminal 'S' on ignition switch and knife disconnect to neutral start knife terminal of wiring harness - Possible cause: (OMC controls) Shift handle not aligned with neutral position of remote control shaft.
Correction: Disconnect shift cable at shift converter box. Squeeze red shift lockout button on control handle and move control through engine forward and reverse ranges. Determine neutral detent position. Remove control handle and reposition so that the neutral lockout plate on control handle engages notch on the mounting flange. (See Figure 7-1-123.) Now the control box, the mounting flange and the control handle are properly aligned for neutral start. Recheck for neutral start. Reconnect shift cable at converter box. Recheck for nominal neutral position at converter box. Adjust cable at converter box if necessary.
Figure 7-1-123
- Possible cause: Shift handle will not return to neutral; excessive compression in throttle cable at idle position.
Correction: Remove throttle cable from anchor block near carburetor. With control handle in neutral, move to forward gear and halfway back to neutral. Make certain idle stop screw is against throttle stop on carburetor. Grasp throttle control cable trunnion nut and pull firmly to remove backlash from cable and control. Turn trunnion nut until trunnion fits in anchor block. Tighten trunnion nut one additional turn to properly preload cable.
SYMPTOM 3: SHIFT HANDLE LOCKED OR UNABLE TO PULL CONTROL HANDLE OUT FOR NEUTRAL. FAST IDLE WARM-UP. (OMC CONTROLS)
Omc Remote Control Manual
- Possible cause: Concealed side mount mounting flange binding control handle
Correction: See 'Possible Cause,' Step 6 'Hard Shifting.' - Possible cause: Control handle not in neutral position relative to remote control shaft. Correction: Move control handle to neutral position. If still unable to pull out handle see SYMPTOM 2 possible causes no. 2 and 3.
- Possible cause: Throttle cable is misadjusted.
Correction: See SYMPTOM 2 no. 3.
Omc Johnson Evinrude Control Box Shifter Manual
Additionally, it may be helpful for you to carefully reread the remote control manufacturer's installation instructions for the particular control with which you are experiencing a problem. Also, review the OMC Remote Control Installation Instructions and the OMC Stern Drive Owner's/Operator's manual for helpful notes and important safety warnings.